Tastes

We are back in Japan, to witness the grace, elaboration and refinement of a tea ceremony translated into the art of whisky blending. The aroma of Hibiki 17 is elegant, complex and floral with exotic spices, green plums and notes of old wood and leather. Distant charcoal, honeycomb and hints of tobacco round off the nose. Bold, intense oak flavors dominate the taste, taking turns with plum sourness, sweet nectarines and fresh mint. Although a little weak in its savory-dry 'matcha green tea finish', it still is a skillfully blended, adorable Japanese dram. RATING: 4.0/5.0 stars ≙ 87 pts → FIRST-CLASS

If you define harmony as 'pleasing combination of parts in a whole', then Suntory has found the perfect name for this Japanese NAS blend. On the nose, Hibiki combines sandalwood, fresh fruits and coconut candies with floral vanilla, burned toast and hints of sawdust. Tastewise, it's not easy to spot individual notes. Honey sweetness, orange zest and perhaps some bitter green tea? The finish is subtle, creamy and with a spicy touch of Mizunara oak. Quite harmonious and enjoyable indeed - but also an expensive reminder that harmony is not very exciting. RATING: 3.5/5.0 stars ≙ 83 pts → ABOVE AVERAGE

Here we have another workhorse of the blend industry, since most of Aberfeldy's production ends up as key component of Dewar's. The nose of this 12-year-old Highlander is unimposing, grainy and slightly acidic with apple cider, heather honey and hints of vinegar. On the palate, it arrives silky, light and malty sweet before turning aromatic and indistinctly sour in the development. A surprisingly milky aftertaste with almonds, muesli and a touch of oak rounds off the experience. It's probably not a very memorable single malt, but nice enough to give it a try. RATING: 3.0/5.0 stars ≙ 80 pts → AVERAGE

I must commend Lagavulin for giving this 200th Anniversary bottling an honest age statement instead of opting for NAS! Fresh and vibrant notes of sea salt, smoked cheese and gentle, earthy peatiness greet the nose, followed by anise, sweet berries and traces of diesel oil. Tasting pure and entirely spirit-driven (8 years!), this single malt features a convincing simplicity: crisp apples, roasted peanuts and creamy honey are buried under a thick layer of dry ash. The lasting finish bids farewell with pickled ginger, salt sticks and a dash of sucrose. A true delight! RATING: 4.2/5.0 stars ≙ 89 pts → FIRST-CLASS [+]

As one of Scotland’s oldest and most respected independent bottlers, Gordon & MacPhail represents a reliable source of quality single malts. The nose of this 8-year-old Highland Park is light and delicate with sour apricots, vanilla toffee and faint hints of smoke. Young, fresh and gingery in the arrival, the taste develops with honey sweetness, mango and traces of black pepper. Again, not much peat. A slightly dry and bitter aftertaste accompanies the clean but one-dimensional finish. I think that a few more years in the casks would have been very beneficial. RATING: 3.2/5.0 stars ≙ 81 pts → AVERAGE [+]

Once upon a time the biggest distillery in Scotland was located in the Highlands with 23 running stills. Although these times are long gone, Tomatin is a name worth remembering. A bit innocent at first, the nose is fruity and creamy with honey, sweet cherries and whiffs of wood smoke. Cloves, raisins and cocoa indicate noticeable sherry influence. On the palate, the oak is taking over with lemon zest, blood oranges and strong notes of dark chocolate. The finish is easy and flawless. Altogether, Tomatin 18 is a solid single malt but missing that little extra. RATING: 3.9/5.0 stars ≙ 86 pts → FIRST-CLASS [-]

This lesser-known whisky from the Isle of Arran takes you on a fascinating journey of smell and taste. A tropical fruit basket with papaya, mango, pineapple and melon awaits the nose, enriched by aromatic spices, honey and cereals. It's quite complex! After an intense and citrusy arrival, the taste evolves floral and gingery with hints of sage, coriander and fructose. The oak kicks in nicely, leading to a robust and chocolaty bitter finish. For a mid-aged single malt, Arran 14 is really hitting the spot. It's a big event, an excellent value and highly recommended! RATING: 4.0/5.0 stars ≙ 87 pts → FIRST-CLASS

Based in Pitlochry and owned by independent bottler Signatory Vintage, Edradour remains one of the smallest distilleries in Scotland. Rich honey sweetness, heather and a diffuse flowery scent encounter the nose on first contact. Very nice, but obviously young. Something bothers me on the palate. It is neither the sweet maltiness, paired with oranges and spices, nor the soft and creamy character. There is something sharp and herbaceous that is hard to pin down. The finish is fairly short with honey and bitter nuts. Not a bad malt, but slightly disjointed. RATING: 3.0/5.0 stars ≙ 79 pts → AVERAGE

Let's go back to the other side of the world, to King Car distillery and their port-finished NAS whisky 'Kavalan Concertmaster'. Nosing this Taiwanese single malt is quite pleasant, despite the intense sweetness and spirity youthfulness. Tropical fruits, icing sugar and a touch of menthol blend nicely with honey, nuts and raisins. With only 40% ABV, the taste is rather thin, sweet and slightly sour, featuring berries, roasted coffee and a dash of pepper in its brief finish. Again, a very 'engineered' and certainly overpriced malt that didn't blow my socks off. RATING: 3.2/5.0 stars ≙ 81 pts → AVERAGE [+]

Wood finishing can add an additional layer of complexity to a whisky, but it can also spoil the existing character of the malt. In case of Talisker Distillers Edition (2006/2016), the Amoroso finish is hitting the spot! The nose is delivering restrained bonfire smoke, brine and a lovely note of sweet BBQ sauce. On the palate, the famous 'chili catch' is less punchy as in the original, while the feast continues with salty spare ribs, sweet grapes and bitter hints of European oak. Charcoal, mild pepper and fruity sweetness remain for dessert. A fantastic single malt! RATING: 4.0/5.0 stars ≙ 87 pts → FIRST-CLASS