Tastes

What's not to like here? The nose betrays a subtle dill rye, the palate offers up nuanced rye flavors of unsalted, roasted walnuts, hazelnuts, almonds, pecans (and perhaps cashews) and the finish brings an understated, but nonetheless markedly enjoyable, lingering sweeteness. If the price were $50-$65, picking up a bottle would be a no-brainier. However, various reviews across the interwebs have argued that a price point nearing $90 might deter the purchase of a four-year, bonded, 100-proof debut whiskey. Ultimately, this is an elegant, unique pour, artfully crafted by Jim Rutledge, priced at a position that may bring hesitation to pulling the trigger on acquiring a bottle. With "only" 70 barrels produced, it's reasonable to skrimp and splurge on this if a Willett 4-year, Pikesville, et. al, "available" ryes already sit on your bar.

2022 Single-Barrel local store pick that evokes French Toast made with a stone-ground, multi grain, wheat bread, cooked atop a seasoned oak plank griddle and dusted with semi-sweet powdered sugar. The 114 proof is nowhere to be found, making it a devilishly easy pour to go back to and indulge in time and again.

Nose and palate arrested attention right off the neck pour. Lost taste and smell for a period. When they returned, air in the bottle had made it all the more better, akin to rekindling a friendship where the first laughs you share with that long distanced kindred spirit are better than the first all those years ago.

In what is a prime example of seeking to capitalize on the zeitgeist that is the "Bourbon Boom," Ukrainian-based international alcohol holding company Global Spirits contracted with Owensboro Distilling Company (Green River Distilling) in 2020 to produce yet another "authentic" bourbon. The company's "attempt to find the finest whiskey" brings to an already flooded bourbon market an 86-proof, four-year age-stated spirit that ranges in price from forty to fifty dollars. Seeking to "celebrate with everyone who values heritage, honors spirits and appreciates the finest authentic bourbons," Cumberland is yet another example of the very competent, perfectly fine distillate Owensboro continues to produce under its imprimatur for numerous "brands." A question worth considering when mulling a purchase of Cumberland Falls is whether the age-stated Cumberland is worth the additional expense when the 100 proof, 2-4 year-aged, Owensboro-produced Wheel Horse (Whiskey Advocate's #19 Whiskey of the Year in 2021), continues to be readily available at 29.99. Whereas Wheel Horse seems to be trying "too hard" to tell your senses that THIS IS BOURBON(!), Cumberland's lower proof offering serves up a relatively creamy nose, a strawberry-balsamic note found deep on the palate and a pleasing-enough sip that invites you to continue searching for something more than its ephemeral, vanishing finish. Considering the ongoing conflict that has consumed Ukraine in recent times, credit Yevgeny Chernyak, Global's CEO, for personally tasting and greenlighting a first batch of Cumberland that showcases how adept Owensboro Distillery is at producing America's native spirit. When blinded against Wheel Horse and Elijah Craig Toasted Barrel, the Cumberland Falls was the whiskey that stood out as the most appealing pour.

This offers many of the flavors of Willett 4 Year Rye with the addition of Seagrass fruitiness. At 90 proof, it drinks with an elegance that actually may be marred at a higher proof. Pretty nose, harmonious flavors and a fleeting, albeit, enjoyable finish; this is a "celebrity" whiskey whose distillers and blenders have apparently put considerable thought into making this an attractive, enticing entry into the finished rye market.

A honeyed nose gives way to a palate that makes one think a cheaper scotch (a la Famous Grouse) somehow accidentally became bottled at O.Z. Tyler at first blush. A little air and time in the glass and faint, honeysuckle bourbon notes attempt to make their presence known. Thankfully 50ml minis exist at places like Total Wine to discern whether a bottle like this belongs in one's rotation. Not sure if this would be a nice add in to an egg-nog; but it probably would be "OK" in a high-ball...maybe.

The Beverage Tasting Institute astutely gave this an "87" noting: "Amber color. Aromas of spiced apple relish, roasted corn, and sultanas with a satiny, crisp, dry medium body and a smooth, delightful, medium-length toasted rye with apple butter, candied ginger, and caramel finish. A solid cocktailing bourbon that hits all the marks." Even though it's only clocking in at 40% ABV, this bourbon DOES have flavor, most likely due to it being sourced from Heaven Hill and "Aged for a minimum of 3 Years." The palate betrays a flavor-profile of a proofed-down Fighting Cock or Evan Williams 1783 with very little finish to savor. Of note, this bourbon is also certified Kosher. A sub-$20 bottle that would surely benefit from more proof, Old Williamsburg is nonetheless perfectly drinkable neat or in a cocktail.

Nose, palate and finish are quite ephemeral, even at the new 90 proof (+4 from the original iteration's 86 proof, Distiller's notes state it as 80 proof). The juice exhibits a modest improvement upon the "original" 1783's depth of flavor; the most notable improvement is a welcome bottle redesign. Absolutely a solid buy if sub $20. Cheers!