Tastes
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Mortlach 12 Year "The Wee Witchie"
Single Malt — Speyside, Scotland
Reviewed September 11, 2023 (edited September 14, 2023)I'm continuing to work through the bottles in my collection that I've yet to review. I've started using the Pantone color system, common in paint, because I was growing weary of using similar descriptors for most whiskies; Pantone affords a finer delineation between colors. This one is a clear version of Pantone 153 (a smidgen lighter than the Mortlach 16, which will be reviewed right after this. It's unclear if coloring is added. Sweet and subtly malty nose: strawberry-rhubarb pie, candied peanuts, and appropriately enough as we ease into Fall, pumpkin bread (I haven't had any since last Fall)--each of these a somewhat different manifestation of the sherry finishing. The palate begins with brown sugar; on the palate, there is a residual bacon note, some very gentle pepper, and a faint tannic bitterness on the long finish, which morphs into a dustiness. Overall, the impression is sweet, and a tad heavy, but a bit disjointed and lacking a "wow" factor. Nice to drink, but not a must-have. I bought this when I was buying more scotch whisky. It's a nice-to-have whisky if you've got a big enough collection and want a little arcana, but not something to seek out. 3.5 on the Distiller scale. 43.4% ABV. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. -
Colonel E.H. Taylor, Jr. Single Barrel Bourbon
Bourbon — Kentucky, USA
Reviewed September 9, 2023 (edited March 9, 2024)I've been going through my collection looking for unreviewed bottles, and was surprised that I'd yet to officially review this one (though I've certainly enjoyed it numerous times). This "necessary" review is a task that I'm more than happy to do on a college football Saturday! Color shows a clear hue somewhere between Pantone 158 and 159. Fruity nose exposes apples, mulled apple cider, pomander, cinnamon. On the palate, there's a quick hit of spicy cinnamon red hots, along with a fruity sweetness. No oiliness or viscosity. The red hots sweeten on the finish, tamed by some butterscotch and vanilla. The bottled-in-bond 100 proof punches a little above its weight, though not in a disjointed way. The overall impression is one of being "focused" or "tightly wound" in wine-review parlance, rather than mouth coating, smooth, penetrating, and viscous. Very good, but missing an additional gear; perhaps this is to the high expectations that this bottle projects. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. Secondary for this bottle is currently around $250; I purchased mine for a third of that. Value is relative at some level. There are about 16 1.5-ounce shots in a standard 750ml bottle. I'm not sure who pours just 1.5 ounces when savoring at home; so figuring a more realistic ten pours per bottle, $25 per pour is significantly cheaper than you're likely to find at a bar, but not something that most will be imbibing every day. You can thank me later for the mental accounting justification if you choose to go the "buy the bottle" route. ;) Buffalo Trace doesn't label or date these, but my single-barrel bottles were purchased three-odd years ago. 100 proof, as the bottled-in-bond designation indicates. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. -
Bernheim 7 Year Original Wheat Whiskey
Wheat Whiskey — Kentucky, USA
Reviewed September 8, 2023 (edited June 17, 2024)This bottle was an impulse purchase for me a few years back, and while I still have over half remaining, I'm glad I bought it. Clear and bright orange mahogany. Nose evokes honey-drizzled buttered yeast rolls, apple pie, and a little bananas Foster. Eminently drinkable, and intellectually interesting as the first wheat whiskey marketed in the U.S., but not much complexity. No hard edges. 3.75 stars on the Distiller scale. Smooth drinking--possibly the smoothest-drinking 90-proof whiskey you've ever sipped--and enjoyable, if somewhat single-toned. But as something that can be found for around $30, it's an interesting alternative to generic bourbon. While all of this sounds like a raft of underhanded complements, I'd keep a bottle onhand at this price. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. -
The Gifted Horse American Whiskey
Other Whiskey — USA
Reviewed September 8, 2023 (edited October 11, 2023)I bought this bottle years ago--it was released in early 2016--and maybe there's a reason that I still have a quarter of it remaining (or maybe it's the fact that there's so much whiskey to taste). The Diageo marketing "story" is that this offering, part of its "Orphan Barrel" series, is the result of "a whopper of a mistake" on their part, which involved someone "emptying barrels of much-younger whiskey into a batch of beautiful 17-year-old Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey." Okay. The naive, overly-zealous whiskeyphile me had to buy it and see what this mistake was all about. I recalled it being good, but not great. So without further adieu... The color is a slightly darker version of the typical bourbon caramel/mahohany/russet. The nose is pleasant, and shows oranges, maraschino cherries, apple pie, crème brûlée, sandalwood, and vanilla. The palate turns these up a notch, and the finish opens up some drying leather and tobacco notes, with additional vanilla. There's also a faint butteriness on the back end that I've never experienced in a bourbon (or whiskey, as is the case here)--akin to the diacetyl that one sometimes finds in overoaked Cali Chardonnay. I like this. As before, good, but not great. Assuming the mashbill lineage to be correct, the bourbon does show characteristics of each component: dry leathery and tobacco notes from the 17-year-old whiskey; sweetness from the corn whiskey; and who knows what from the MGP. The whiskey is smooth, and the heat is not out-of-step with the 115 proof. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. I don't know what I paid for it years back, but I do recall (like the others in the Orphan Barrel series) that it wasn't cheap. Perhaps $100? A quick Internet search shows that it can be purchased today for $400-500, ostensibly because of the scarcity (there was only one release). I would certainly drink this again, but not at current prices. For those who insist on empirical analysis, find a friend! 115 proof. 39% 17-year-old Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey; 61% 4-year-old Corn Whiskey and Indiana Bourbon Whiskey (i.e., MGP). N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. -
Maker's Mark Cask Strength
Bourbon — Kentucky, USA
Reviewed September 6, 2023 (edited September 24, 2023)BUDGET HAZMAT SHOWDOWN Benchmark Full Proof Old Grand-Dad 114 Maker’s Mark Cask Strength I’ve always loved high-proof, barrel-strength “hazmat” bourbon. As I’ve written in other reviews, there’s a certain purity in drinking these, as they are bottled without dilution and essentially unadulterated straight from the barrel. I decided to pull three relatively inexpensive bottles from my collection to see which would be crowned Champion of Budget Hazmat Bourbon. While none of these approach the proof of many higher-end bourbons (Elijah Craig Barrel Proof and Booker’s are frequently 130 or higher, as are highly allocated bottles such as William Larue Weller), they are also far less expensive. The comparisons aren’t perfect, but a little empirical analysis is a good thing. Benchmark Full Proof (125 proof; $25) The Benchmark Full Proof (BFP), a Buffalo Trace product, shows a clear and classic mahogany color, essentially identical to the other two. The nose is sweet, with chocolate-covered cherries, vanilla, cigar box, pipe tobacco, and the expected ethanol; there’s no need to bury your nose in the glass and inhale deeply, unless you’re a nasal masochist. After tasting the other two, I get a cotton candy aromas as well. On the palate, there’s a light glycerin mouthfeel, and again, the expected ethanol. The finish is medium in length, and very smooth, with absolutely no tannic bitterness. It carries no age statement. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. Old Grand-Dad 114 (114 proof; $30) Old Grand-Dad 114 (OGD), a Jim Beam product, shows the same classic color as the BFP. The nose is quite different, with saddle leather, dried oranges, demerara sugar, a dusty element, and a subtle minty coolness, which likely stems from the high-rye mashbill (63% corn, 27% rye, 10% barley). Surprisingly, the alcohol comes across as strong or even stronger than the BFP, despite being 11 proof points lower. There’s more oakiness on the palate as well. The medium finish shows some rye spice, and like the BFP shows no bitterness. On the whole, it is not as sweet as the BFP. It too has no age statement. 3.75 on the Distiller scale. Maker’s Mark Cask Strength (110.4 proof; $40) Maker’s Mark Cask Strength (MMCS) is of course a Maker’s Mark product, and is nearly identical in color to the the BFP and OBD. This particular bottle is the lowest proof of the three at 110.4; the company notes that the proof can vary from 108 to 114. The nose is between the BFP and OGD in terms of intensity, and offers caramel, Cocoa Puffs cereal, and brown sugar. The palate is warm and noticeably lighter than the other two, as might be expected by the lower proof, and has a pleasant rosin note. There is noticeable woody vanilla on the finish, more prominent than the BFP and OGD. It too is an NAS bourbon. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. Each of these are pleasant sippers on their own, and their high proofs would lend themselves well to a Manhattan or Old Fashioned (I’ve done both with the BFP and OGD). On the whole, the BFP is smoother and richer; the OGD a bit more rugged; and the MMCS more sophisticated. Each lack the complexity and intensity that I find in Elijah Craig Barrel Proof or Booker’s; but both of those are more than double the price. I’ve always been a fan of OGD, and have referred to it as the best bang-for-the-buck on a proof basis. But next to the others, I’d push it to third place. The BFP and MMCS are both very good and somewhat different, but I’d give a slight edge to the BHP. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in Glencairn glasses. -
Old Grand-Dad 114 Bourbon
Bourbon — Kentucky, USA
Reviewed September 6, 2023 (edited September 24, 2023)BUDGET HAZMAT SHOWDOWN Benchmark Full Proof Old Grand-Dad 114 Maker’s Mark Cask Strength I’ve always loved high-proof, barrel-strength “hazmat” bourbon. As I’ve written in other reviews, there’s a certain purity in drinking these, as they are bottled without dilution and essentially unadulterated straight from the barrel. I decided to pull three relatively inexpensive bottles from my collection to see which would be crowned Champion of Budget Hazmat Bourbon. While none of these approach the proof of many higher-end bourbons (Elijah Craig Barrel Proof and Booker’s are frequently 130 or higher, as are highly allocated bottles such as William Larue Weller), they are also far less expensive. The comparisons aren’t perfect, but a little empirical analysis is a good thing. Benchmark Full Proof (125 proof; $25) The Benchmark Full Proof (BFP), a Buffalo Trace product, shows a clear and classic mahogany color, essentially identical to the other two. The nose is sweet, with chocolate-covered cherries, vanilla, cigar box, pipe tobacco, and the expected ethanol; there’s no need to bury your nose in the glass and inhale deeply, unless you’re a nasal masochist. After tasting the other two, I get a cotton candy aromas as well. On the palate, there’s a light glycerin mouthfeel, and again, the expected ethanol. The finish is medium in length, and very smooth, with absolutely no tannic bitterness. It carries no age statement. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. Old Grand-Dad 114 (114 proof; $30) Old Grand-Dad 114 (OGD), a Jim Beam product, shows the same classic color as the BFP. The nose is quite different, with saddle leather, dried oranges, demerara sugar, a dusty element, and a subtle minty coolness, which likely stems from the high-rye mashbill (63% corn, 27% rye, 10% barley). Surprisingly, the alcohol comes across as strong or even stronger than the BFP, despite being 11 proof points lower. There’s more oakiness on the palate as well. The medium finish shows some rye spice, and like the BFP shows no bitterness. On the whole, it is not as sweet as the BFP. It too has no age statement. 3.75 on the Distiller scale. Maker’s Mark Cask Strength (110.4 proof; $40) Maker’s Mark Cask Strength (MMCS) is of course a Maker’s Mark product, and is nearly identical in color to the the BFP and OBD. This particular bottle is the lowest proof of the three at 110.4; the company notes that the proof can vary from 108 to 114. The nose is between the BFP and OGD in terms of intensity, and offers caramel, Cocoa Puffs cereal, and brown sugar. The palate is warm and noticeably lighter than the other two, as might be expected by the lower proof, and has a pleasant rosin note. There is noticeable woody vanilla on the finish, more prominent than the BFP and OGD. It too is an NAS bourbon. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. Each of these are pleasant sippers on their own, and their high proofs would lend themselves well to a Manhattan or Old Fashioned (I’ve done both with the BFP and OGD). On the whole, the BFP is smoother and richer; the OGD a bit more rugged; and the MMCS more sophisticated. Each lack the complexity and intensity that I find in Elijah Craig Barrel Proof or Booker’s; but both of those are more than double the price. I’ve always been a fan of OGD, and have referred to it as the best bang-for-the-buck on a proof basis. But next to the others, I’d push it to third place. The BFP and MMCS are both very good and somewhat different, but I’d give a slight edge to the BHP. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in Glencairn glasses. -
Benchmark Full Proof Bourbon (125 Proof)
Bourbon — Kentucky, USA
Reviewed September 6, 2023 (edited March 5, 2024)BUDGET HAZMAT SHOWDOWN Benchmark Full Proof Old Grand-Dad 114 Maker’s Mark Cask Strength I’ve always loved high-proof, barrel-strength “hazmat” bourbon. As I’ve written in other reviews, there’s a certain purity in drinking these, as they are bottled without dilution and essentially unadulterated straight from the barrel. I decided to pull three relatively inexpensive bottles from my collection to see which would be crowned Champion of Budget Hazmat Bourbon. While none of these approach the proof of many higher-end bourbons (Elijah Craig Barrel Proof and Booker’s are frequently 130 or higher, as are highly allocated bottles such as William Larue Weller), they are also far less expensive. The comparisons aren’t perfect, but a little empirical analysis is a good thing. Benchmark Full Proof (125 proof; $25) The Benchmark Full Proof (BFP), a Buffalo Trace product, shows a clear and classic mahogany color, essentially identical to the other two. The nose is sweet, with chocolate-covered cherries, vanilla, cigar box, pipe tobacco, and the expected ethanol; there’s no need to bury your nose in the glass and inhale deeply, unless you’re a nasal masochist. After tasting the other two, I get a cotton candy aromas as well. On the palate, there’s a light glycerin mouthfeel, and again, the expected ethanol. The finish is medium in length, and very smooth, with absolutely no tannic bitterness. It carries no age statement. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. Old Grand-Dad 114 (114 proof; $30) Old Grand-Dad 114 (OGD), a Jim Beam product, shows the same classic color as the BFP. The nose is quite different, with saddle leather, dried oranges, demerara sugar, a dusty element, and a subtle minty coolness, which likely stems from the high-rye mashbill (63% corn, 27% rye, 10% barley). Surprisingly, the alcohol comes across as strong or even stronger than the BFP, despite being 11 proof points lower. There’s more oakiness on the palate as well. The medium finish shows some rye spice, and like the BFP shows no bitterness. On the whole, it is not as sweet as the BFP. It too has no age statement. 3.75 on the Distiller scale. Maker’s Mark Cask Strength (110.4 proof; $40) Maker’s Mark Cask Strength (MMCS) is of course a Maker’s Mark product, and is nearly identical in color to the the BFP and OBD. This particular bottle is the lowest proof of the three at 110.4; the company notes that the proof can vary from 108 to 114. The nose is between the BFP and OGD in terms of intensity, and offers caramel, Cocoa Puffs cereal, and brown sugar. The palate is warm and noticeably lighter than the other two, as might be expected by the lower proof, and has a pleasant rosin note. There is noticeable woody vanilla on the finish, more prominent than the BFP and OGD. It too is an NAS bourbon. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. Each of these are pleasant sippers on their own, and their high proofs would lend themselves well to a Manhattan or Old Fashioned (I’ve done both with the BFP and OGD). On the whole, the BFP is smoother and richer; the OGD a bit more rugged; and the MMCS more sophisticated. Each lack the complexity and intensity that I find in Elijah Craig Barrel Proof or Booker’s; but both of those are more than double the price. I’ve always been a fan of OGD, and have referred to it as the best bang-for-the-buck on a proof basis. But next to the others, I’d push it to third place. The BFP and MMCS are both very good and somewhat different, but I’d give a slight edge to the BHP. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in Glencairn glasses. -
Caol Ila 12 Year
Single Malt — Islay, Scotland
Reviewed September 5, 2023 (edited September 6, 2023)Inexplicably continuing my hot-weather peated scotch tasting this evening with Caol Ila, which I've not had in some time and have also not reviewed. Presents a golden hue not unlike Chardonnay. But that's where the familiarity ends: there is some pear, tangerine, and saline in concert with gently smoky peat on the nose. More smokiness sits atop a creamy mouthfeel with some additional sweetness, like crème brûlée. Finishes with some smoke, additional sweetness, and a bitter chary note. 3.75 on the Distiller scale. Caol Ila pales in comparison to the ostentatiousness of its bigger Islay brothers, but its delicacy allows it to maintain a niche both as a standalone single-malt and a blending component of Johnnie Walker. 43% ABV. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. -
It's late summer and 89°, but as I just finished tasting and reviewing a peated Irish whiskey, I decided to keep the peat theme going, despite the heat, and search for a peated whisky that I'd yet to review. I immediately recalled my single bottle of Ardbeg Drum, which I recalled not caring for (hence no review). Time for another assessment. I'll begin by stating that I'm not an Ardbeg fanboy. While the distillery makes some amazing whisky (Corryvreckan, Uigeadail), I've always viewed them as putting a little too much emphasis on marketing, which ultimately makes me question quality (not that those two elements have to be mutually exclusive). The Drum, aged in rum casks, is a poster child for Ardbeg's marketing: this bottling was released on the annual Ardbeg Day with a "thrilling Caribbean twist" (on the back of the packaging). The bottle itself is adorned with three cartoonish stickers, promising "Briny Notes,' "Ripe Banana Notes," and "Pineapple Notes" (in case someone forgot about the Caribbean theme). The pairing is as incongruous as the mayor of Miami Beach promoting a "Scotland Day," reminding everyone to wear their tartans and Fair Isle virgin wool sweaters. But I digress. Clear pale straw, suggesting no added coloring. Some smoky peat and malted barley notes on the nose, and perhaps a whiff of pineapple and ripe banana like the stickers say, but this seems more like an olfactory confirmation bias. There's some honeyed sweetness and Islay salt on the palate, finishing with smoky peat again. I think of a peaty scotch whisky as complex, brooding, and rugged as the Islay coast. It grabs you by the (ostensibly tweed) lapels and demands respect. Ardbeg Drum does not fit that profile. Call me an old-school traditionalist; I don't deny it. The cynic in me thinks that this is young unneeded inventory that the marketing department needed to get rid of without making it seem like it. I'm all for bringing new Scotch drinkers into the fold, and this bottling certainly has that potential, but it's not a serious whisky--even if the price is. 2.5 on the Distiller scale. No age statement; non-chill filtered; 46% ABV. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.
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Midnight Silkie Irish Whiskey
Blended Malt — Ireland
Reviewed September 5, 2023 (edited September 6, 2023)The Midnight Silkie is a blend of single malts that are finished in virgin oak and imperial stout casks. I'm not an Irish whiskey expert, but this is unique in my experience. The bottle was a gift from a friend, and I'm pleased to have received it. Pretty honey-gold appearance (unknown if coloring is added). Expansive and sweet nose of Honey-Nut Cheerios, ripe pear, and smoky peat. Mouthcoating palate with more of the same; the slightly-above-normal 46% ABV is evident but very much in check. Medium finish with some vanilla and woody tannins on the back end. Overall, a smooth, easy-drinking pour, though not terribly complex. 3.25 on the Distiller scale. Non chill-filtered; no age statement; 46% ABV. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat from a Glencairn glass.
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