Tastes

The allure of barrel-proof bourbon is its purity and authenticity. No dilution. No secrets. Unadulterated. It's not for the faint of heart. As a celebrity-concocted olfactory meal, Stagg Jr. explodes in a full-on assault: think Gordon Ramsey meets Arnold Schwarzenegger. The clear, dark mahogany in the glass hides a pervasive nose exuding apple pie, dried apricot, orange oil, creme brûlée, char, and freshly hewn oak. These are amped up even further on the palate, bathed in vanilla extract and some woody tannins whose sweet bitterness masquerades as cafe cubano, finishing long. The overall experience is sweet with a some tannic bitterness, which caps some of the bourbon's more hedonistic attributes. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. There is no age statement, but Stagg Jr is believed to be around eight years old. It's hard to believe that other barrels of this bourbon wait another seven to eight years to mature into George T. Stagg. Unfiltered. 126.4 proof. N.B.: All spirts tested neat in a Glencairn glass.

I love Wild Turkey in all its expressions. I'm getting down to the end of this single-barrel bottle so I thought I'd write my third note on it, which is consistent with the previous two (7/7/22; 10/20/22). Clear light mahogany color. Orange peel, apple pie, some vanilla, sweet tea, honey, and red hots. Pleasant oaky vanilla mid-palate, along with some tobacco and leather notes. The 101 proof makes an appearance, but very smooth and well integrated. There is the dustiness that I picked up in my last review, but in this tasting it leads more toward char. The overall impression is a sweet, easy-to-drink bourbon with a nice balance of WT's rye spiciness. Bottled 4/30/2020 from barrel 1448, stored in Warehouse A, on rick 37. 101 proof. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

Round two of the not-yet-reviewed bottles from my collection, following round one (Balvenie 12 Single Barrel). Deep, clear amber color. Nose is reminiscent of pear nectar, like a concentrate of Oban 14, along with a subtle smoky peat; orange marmalade on toast; and an autumnal tart apple cider. The palate is amplified and mouthcoating, with a smokier, but by no means overdone, presence. Some sweet golden raisins and honey also make an appearance. The sweet smokiness continues on the lengthy finish. Delicious. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. This bottle distilled 2004; bottled 2019. 43% ABV. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

I've been going through my collection looking for bottles that I've yet to review--all in the name of empiricism! Clear straw color; no apparent coloring added. Somewhat reticent nose reveals apple, hay, honey, and surprisingly less vanilla than I've experienced with other whiskies--but perhaps consistent with what the labeling refers to as the "subtle vanilla oak" which is the consistent goal for each hand-selected barrel. In contradistinction to the nose, which is something of a wallflower, the palate is the life of the party, with an almost oily mouthfeel; new oak consistent with the first-fill bourbon cask maturation; noticeable ethanol consistent with the above-average ABV; and a focused finish with both pepper and oakiness. With a fruity nose and assertive palate, this makes for an interesting and intellectually enjoyable drink which, like a puzzle, takes a bit of time to put together. There are more complex (and expensive) scotches around, but this is one that I'll keep onhand. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. Each bottle is "no more than 300 drawn from a single cask" which is hand-selected for consistent taste. Cask # 19029; bottle # 37. Non-chill filtered; 47.8% ABV. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat from a Glencairn glass.

Many retailers select custom barrels in the Maker's Mark Private Selection series; this one is "Bev Max Edition #1", stave profile 1-2-2-4-1, bottled at 109.5 proof in February 2021. Very similar clear reddish mahogany color to the Maker's 46 that immediately preceded it. The nose is more focused and less plush than the MM46, showing carrot cake, butter pecan ice cream, Golden Grahams cereal, a whiff of molasses, and a dusty note. The wood jumps out on the palate, which has a wonderful, oily mouthfeel where the flavors explode, buoyed by the higher proof, which is well-integrated. Loads of vanilla on the finish which lingers like a long country road. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. I don't recall the price I paid for this--perhaps $60?--and while these Private Selection bottles aren't as polished as some of the other MM wood-staved products (FAE-01 and -02, BRT-01 and -02) in my experience, they're always reliable, and unique given the custom stave profile, offering a differentiated drinking experience. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

I haven't had Maker's 46 in years. I recall trying it over a decade ago when it first came out, and I loved it. Since then, I've been weaving and wending my way through the vast world of whisk(e)y, and had not thought much about it--especially given Maker's Mark's continued development of the wood-stave finishing process that was started with MM46, leading to the amazing FAE-01 and -02, and BRT-01 and -02, among others. I had this unopened bottle hidden behind several others and decided to open it. What a pleasant surprise! It was everything I remembered. Clear red mahogany color. Cinnamon, pound cake, vanilla, banana pudding, dried orange, pepper, and a pleasant sawdust on the nose. Young wood on the palate, where the ethanol makes an appearance on the back end, smoothly. The 94 proof goes down easy, with some pleasant oak on the finish. Not terribly complex, but very good--and a fantastic value in today's market at ~$40. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. As the photo shows, mine is the old-style bottle; I've not yet had the newer one yet, but very much hope it's the same. MM is widely available, so as soon as this one gets low, I'll grab a new one. But with as much bourbon I've got in the barn, that's not going to happen soon. ;) N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

Weller C.Y.P.B. ("Craft Your Perfect Bourbon") was a "crowd-sourcing" experiment done by Buffalo Trace a few years ago. They asked consumers to pick their favorite mashbill, age, rickhouse floor, and proof. CYPB is cheated; matures on the highest floors; is eight years old, and is bottled at 90 proof. I haven't had this bourbon in some time; my last review was June 20, 2022. I tried it with friends a couple nights ago, and thought it was significantly better than I'd recalled--but I wasn't taking notes. I reminded myself to try it again in a couple days. Clear caramel color. Fruity 1970s ambrosia nose: tangerine wedges, maraschino cherries, and mini marshmallows, in addition to vanilla, spice cake and cool mint. Some toffee and espresso on the palate, along with the ethanol, with some caramel, vanilla, and char on the finish. Perhaps the "significantly better" perception from the other night was after a couple of pours beforehand. It is still better than I'd recalled, but not exceptional--and certainly no value, considering the price (~$700 on the secondary market). It's something that all bourbon aficionados need to try--but try it at your friend's house. 3.75 on the Distiller scale (value not considered). N.B. Tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

Elijah Craig Barrel Proof: B517 vs C917 Elijah Craig Barrel Proof (ECBP) is one of my favorite bourbons. Heaven Hill, the distillery for Elijah Craig, releases ECBP three times per year (January, May, September), with a four-character code: January is “A1” (A for first release; 1 for the month of January); May is “B5” (B for the second release; 5 for the month of May); and September is “C9” (C for the third release; 9 for the month of September). The second two characters correspond to the last two digits of a particular year. Thus “B517” is the second release, in May, in the year 2017. All ECBP have a 12-year age statement, and proof typically ranges from around 120 to nearly 140. Caveat bibitor. I did a side-by-side tasting of ECBP B520 and A122 on June 25, 2022; this tasting compares B517 and C917. B517 (62.1% ABV): Clear and dark orange mahogany color. Upon opening, the nose was reticent vs the C917, but opened up with air. The expected ethanol (this is barrel-proof bourbon) is not out of balance with root beer concentrate, cut hay, maple syrup, Thai basil, roasted marshmallow, vanilla cake, and spearmint. Cinnamon red hots and espresso finishes with some drying tannins and vanilla on the finish. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. C917 (65.5% ABV): Clear and dark orange mahogany color; indistinguishable from the B517. But the nose immediately differentiates itself: it is far more effusive and ebullient, showing candy apple, cola, chocolate-covered cherries, and vanilla with intoxicating intensity. There is a similarly boisterous palate, which piles on with the addition of sweet pipe tobacco. The vanilla finish goes on and on and on. The incredible aromatics and palate intensity more than stands up to the hazmat proof. Outstanding; few bourbons reach these heights. 4.75 on the Distiller scale. Going back and forth between the two reveals a significant difference. The B517 is very good, but lacks the depth and breadth of the C917. If the B517 is a Porsche 911, then the C917 is a GT3 RS. This is a not-insignificant difference. Despite these differences, the consistent quality and hedonistic pleasure that both of these bottles affords illustrates why each release of ECBP goes into my inventory whether tasted already or not. Irrespective of release, bourbon afficionados can rely on consistent excellence. With wide (if seasonal) availability and a price around $80 retail, ECBP represents incredible value in the ever-crazier bourbon world. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

Elijah Craig Barrel Proof: B517 vs C917 Elijah Craig Barrel Proof (ECBP) is one of my favorite bourbons. Heaven Hill, the distillery for Elijah Craig, releases ECBP three times per year (January, May, September), with a four-character code: January is “A1” (A for first release; 1 for the month of January); May is “B5” (B for the second release; 5 for the month of May); and September is “C9” (C for the third release; 9 for the month of September). The second two characters correspond to the last two digits of a particular year. Thus “B517” is the second release, in May, in the year 2017. All ECBP have a 12-year age statement, and proof typically ranges from around 120 to nearly 140. Caveat bibitor. I did a side-by-side tasting of ECBP B520 and A122 on June 25, 2022; this tasting compares B517 and C917. B517 (62.1% ABV): Clear and dark orange mahogany color. Upon opening, the nose was reticent vs the C917, but opened up with air. The expected ethanol (this is barrel-proof bourbon) is not out of balance with root beer concentrate, cut hay, maple syrup, Thai basil, roasted marshmallow, vanilla cake, and spearmint. Cinnamon red hots and espresso finishes with some drying tannins and vanilla on the finish. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. C917 (65.5% ABV): Clear and dark orange mahogany color; indistinguishable from the B517. But the nose immediately differentiates itself: it is far more effusive and ebullient, showing candy apple, cola, chocolate-covered cherries, and vanilla with intoxicating intensity. There is a similarly boisterous palate, which piles on with the addition of sweet pipe tobacco. The vanilla finish goes on and on and on. The incredible aromatics and palate intensity more than stands up to the hazmat proof. Outstanding; few bourbons reach these heights. 4.75 on the Distiller scale. Going back and forth between the two reveals a significant difference. The B517 is very good, but lacks the depth and breadth of the C917. If the B517 is a Porsche 911, then the C917 is a GT3 RS. This is a not-insignificant difference. Despite these differences, the consistent quality and hedonistic pleasure that both of these bottles affords illustrates why each release of ECBP goes into my inventory whether tasted already or not. Irrespective of release, bourbon afficionados can rely on consistent excellence. With wide (if seasonal) availability and a price around $80 retail, ECBP represents incredible value in the ever-crazier bourbon world. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

For years I unsuccessfully tried to secure a bottle of Elijah Craig 18. Then around Thanksgiving of 2021, I saw a bottle behind the bar at West End Tavern on Pearl Street in Boulder, CO. It was nearly empty, and I was given the remainder of the bottle, even though it was slightly more than the typical pour. I spent the next 45 minutes savoring it. Earlier this year I was able to find a bottle saved for me by the manager at my local shop. I've enjoyed it on a couple of occasions, only with friends who I know would appreciate it (including said manager). Clear pale mahogany in color. The nose shows baking, fruity, and woody notes: Honey-Nut Cheerios, blueberry, apple pie, rosin, nutmeg, vanilla, and clove, finishing with a subtle menthol. These descriptors continue on the palate, along with drying tannins that lead to a long vanilla-highlighted finish. Overall, this is a sophisticated, subtle, and restrained pour which is not unlike modern nonrepresentational art in its aesthetic, in that some prior knowledge is required to bolster the appreciation. It is not ostentatious. Tasted blind, a connoisseur could detect an aged bourbon, but armed with the understanding of a bourbon that has aged for 18 years surely elicits a deeper investigation and appreciation. 4.5 on the Distiller scale. My only reservation is that EC18 isn't bottled at a higher proof. But the cutting with water might not only be an economic decision; because it has been in the barrel for 18 years, EC18 does have woody notes that perhaps benefit from some dilution. Barrel 5863, bottled 6.2.22. 45% ABV. N.B.: Tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.