Tastes
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Oban 2006 Distillers Edition (Bottled 2020)
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed September 18, 2023 (edited September 21, 2023)OBAN SHOWDOWN Oban 14 Oban Distiller’s Edition Oban 18 Oban sometimes gets a bad rap because of its gentleness (I say this in particular about Oban 14), which leads some to proclaim it as a “beginner’s” scotch—as if an approachable whisky is mutually exclusive from one that could be enjoyed by a more experienced imbiber. Whisky afficionados shouldn’t conflate gentleness with simplicity, which Oban 14 is not; rather, it is subtle and refined, and requires some attention to tease out its complexity. Perhaps the Oban Distiller’s Edition, which was first released about 25 years ago, and the Oban Little Bay, which was first released about eight years ago, are responses to the market leaning towards power rather than finesse. But I digress. Oban 14 Color is a clear version of Pantone 138 (I have no affiliation with Pantone, but am using it in an attempt to achieve a little more visual precision). The nose is pear paradise: pear purée, pear nectar, pear tart. Then saline, hay, some very light peat, and a subtle not-quite-smokiness that is perhaps closer to a cured meat, like speck. The palate has a creamy mouthfeel, with sweet honey, and a floral gardenia quality, if the smell of that flower could be tasted. There is a long finish with salt, a pinch of pepper dust and some spicy oak. Joyous. 43% ABV. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. Oban Distiller’s Edition I’ve always enjoyed the sherry-finished Distiller’s Editions of Diageo’s single-malt whiskies. Color is the darkest of the three, nearer to Pantone 152. But this is not due to the sherry aging, as the sherry here is Fino, which is far lighter than the more commonly used Olorosso. The Distiller’s Edition is a weightier expression, occupying a sort of middle ground between the 14 and 18 in nose, palate, and finish. The nose is near to a peach cobbler, with a reminder of breakfast bacon continuing to waft through the kitchen. The palate maintains a light glycerin, and salty sweetness continues on the finish. 2021 bottling. Identical 43% ABV. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. Oban 18 Color is a touch darker than the Oban 14; more like Pantone 145. This is a fuller, rounder version of the Oban 14—but at the expense of the 14’s vibrancy, not unlike an aged wine. What was once a bouquet of fruity pears has morphed into a cozy mélange of baked pears and applesauce, sprinkled with brown sugar. The palate is creamy like the 14, with a sweetness less honey and more sorghum, and a finish with fine pepper more muted than the 14, along with fine leathery dryness. Only four extra years in a cool, damp climate, but the difference is noticeable. If Oban is a feminine whisky, this is an older version of the same beautiful young woman; each has their charms. Identical 43% ABV. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. On the whole, I prefer the younger Oban 14 over the Distiller’s edition and its older 18-year expression. The 14 drinks as if it’s at the height of its charms; its two older siblings aren’t as lithe and sprightly. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. -
Oban 14 Year
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed September 18, 2023 (edited September 21, 2023)OBAN SHOWDOWN Oban 14 Oban Distiller’s Edition Oban 18 Oban sometimes gets a bad rap because of its gentleness (I say this in particular about Oban 14), which leads some to proclaim it as a “beginner’s” scotch—as if an approachable whisky is mutually exclusive from one that could be enjoyed by a more experienced imbiber. Whisky afficionados shouldn’t conflate gentleness with simplicity, which Oban 14 is not; rather, it is subtle and refined, and requires some attention to tease out its complexity. Perhaps the Oban Distiller’s Edition, which was first released about 25 years ago, and the Oban Little Bay, which was first released about eight years ago, are responses to the market leaning towards power rather than finesse. But I digress. Oban 14 Color is a clear version of Pantone 138 (I have no affiliation with Pantone, but am using it in an attempt to achieve a little more visual precision). The nose is pear paradise: pear purée, pear nectar, pear tart. Then saline, hay, some very light peat, and a subtle not-quite-smokiness that is perhaps closer to a cured meat, like speck. The palate has a creamy mouthfeel, with sweet honey, and a floral gardenia quality, if the smell of that flower could be tasted. There is a long finish with salt, a pinch of pepper dust and some spicy oak. Joyous. 43% ABV. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. Oban Distiller’s Edition I’ve always enjoyed the sherry-finished Distiller’s Editions of Diageo’s single-malt whiskies. Color is the darkest of the three, nearer to Pantone 152. But this is not due to the sherry aging, as the sherry here is Fino, which is far lighter than the more commonly used Olorosso. The Distiller’s Edition is a weightier expression, occupying a sort of middle ground between the 14 and 18 in nose, palate, and finish. The nose is near to a peach cobbler, with a reminder of breakfast bacon continuing to waft through the kitchen. The palate maintains a light glycerin, and salty sweetness continues on the finish. 2021 bottling. Identical 43% ABV. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. Oban 18 Color is a touch darker than the Oban 14; more like Pantone 145. This is a fuller, rounder version of the Oban 14—but at the expense of the 14’s vibrancy, not unlike an aged wine. What was once a bouquet of fruity pears has morphed into a cozy mélange of baked pears and applesauce, sprinkled with brown sugar. The palate is creamy like the 14, with a sweetness less honey and more sorghum, and a finish with fine pepper more muted than the 14, along with fine leathery dryness. Only four extra years in a cool, damp climate, but the difference is noticeable. If Oban is a feminine whisky, this is an older version of the same beautiful young woman; each has their charms. Identical 43% ABV. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. On the whole, I prefer the younger Oban 14 over the Distiller’s edition and its older 18-year expression. The 14 drinks as if it’s at the height of its charms; its two older siblings aren’t as lithe and sprightly. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. -
Elijah Craig Single Barrel Barrel Proof Bourbon (Private Label)
Bourbon — Kentucky, USA
Reviewed September 17, 2023 (edited October 10, 2023)ELIJAH CRAIG PRIVATE BARREL SHOWDOWN Total Wine Private Barrel Distiller Selection (TWPB) ------------------------------------------------------------------ 8-year age statement Barrel Serial # 6653214 120.7 proof Vs. Bevmax Private Barrel (BVPB) -------------------------------------- 9-year age statement Barrel serial # 6205648 127.7 proof TWPB Pantone 160 in color. Nose of BBQ sauce, bacon, maple syrup, brown sugar, and a dusty element, along with some gentle, cooling spearmint. Heat not at all apparent on the nose, but that changes dramatically on the palate, where everything is amplified. Lots of spice leads to a longish finish with notes of vanilla. The overall impression is disjointed, like a gangly teenager or big-pawed puppy yet to fill out its frame. 3.5 on the Distiller scale. BVPB Pantone 167; more russet than the TWPB. Completely different nose: far smoother, with buttered maple-syruped pancakes, pomander, crème brûlée. On the palate, there is some sweet corn; the 127.7 proof is noticeable, but is more integrated than the lower-proof TWBP, and is more reminiscent of the elder 12-year-old Elijah Craig Barrel Proof (ECBP) releases, but not quite as intense and smooth in general. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. This "showdown" is something of an apples-to-oranges comparison, even though both are Elijah Craig private barrels. Two different barrels, two different age statements, two different selectors. While the 9-year-old in this case (BVPB) is superior to the 8-year-old (TWPB), I have no way of knowing if the difference is a function of age alone. Normal ECBP releases are bottled at 12 years of age, and neither of these are in the class of the typical ECBP release. If anything, this comparison underscores the variability that is apparent between single barrels and single years. The difference is significant. The economic aspect to the distillers also cannot be ignored: who knows what the process of barrel selection actually is? Has Heaven Hill set aside the dregs, and packaged them in a marketing ploy of "pick the best one as you see fit?" We may never know. What we do know is that barrels and years are two of many variables that make a significant difference. N.B.: All spirts tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. -
Very Old Barton 90 Proof Bourbon
Bourbon — Kentucky, USA
Reviewed September 17, 2023 (edited October 11, 2023)Continuing to review bottles in my collection that I've not yet reviewed. Color is Pantone 152 (https://www.pantone-colours.com; I have no association with Pantone). Nose shows toffee, vanilla, faint butterscotch, carrot cake, and a little tobacco. Some light viscosity and weight on the palate, beginning sweet but turning spicy with cinnamon red hots and a touch of tannic bitterness. The 90 proof becomes noticeable on the long finish, which carries some faint woody tannins before ending with some dry leathery notes. VOB is a NAS bourbon, but is at least four years old due to the Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey designation. It can typically be found for less than $20. Lacks the complexity for a contemplative sipper, but I'd definitely keep one on hand. 3.0 on the Distiller scale. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. -
Ancient Ancient Age 10 Star
Bourbon — Kentucky, USA
Reviewed September 16, 2023 (edited June 17, 2024)Continuing to review bottles in my collection that I've not yet reviewed. Sadly, this bottle has been discontinued by Buffalo Trace, and I just poured the last of my last bottle. I'd never seen this where I live, and when I saw it out of town a few years back, for about $20, I grabbed it. Also continuing my recent Pantone color experiment: this one, like several other bourbons, looks like Pantone 152 (https://www.pantone-colours.com). (By the way, I have zero association with Pantone). Classic and pleasantly fruity nose shows caramel apples, apple pie, and graham cracker, followed by a healthy blast of spearmint. Palate exhibits a little viscosity, oranges, and a nice spiciness, transitioning to a sweet, medium-length finish with just a little pepperiness on the finish. The 90-proof is very much in balance--almost hidden. Not the most complex bourbon, but a great value, and enough there to keep your interest. 3.25 on the Distiller scale. Farewell to an oldie, but a goodie. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. -
Michter's US*1 American Whiskey
Other Whiskey — USA
Reviewed September 15, 2023 (edited September 17, 2023)Continuing to work through whiskies in my collection that I've yet to review. Also continuing with my Pantone color experimenting: this one is a clear version of Pantone 159 (https://www.pantone-colours.com), a touch more russet than others I've had recently. I haven't had this whiskey in a couple years, but I'd always recalled since my initial experience with it that it had an odd sweetness, almost like Sucralose. I'm getting that odd sweetness again, but Sucralose is perhaps not the best descriptor. If wax-bottle candy and Corn Pops had a love-child, the sweetness on the nose would be it. There's also some vanilla; not vanilla extract, but vanilla cake icing. There is a faint viscosity on the palate, and a lingering sweetness with that same vanilla icing. What this whiskey needs is another 15 or more proof points. This drinks like the Miller Lite of whiskey. It lacks substance. It's not flawed per se, or rough around the edges; but it lacks depth and complexity. There's a certain artificiality: with bourbon, you expect natural flavors, and a big Kentucky hug. Of course, this isn't bourbon, but whiskey, and perhaps it's the already-used barrels (rather than the new charred oak barrels that would give it a bourbon designation) that is its undoing. This isn't a sipper, and it's too blasé for cocktails. Interesting to experience, but not something I'd keep on hand. 2.75 on the Distiller scale. Batch # 17J1369. 83.4 proof. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. -
Benchmark No. 8 Bourbon
Bourbon — Kentucky, USA
Reviewed September 14, 2023 (edited January 25, 2024)Continuing to work through the non-yet-reviewed whiskies in my collection. And continuing with my Pantone color experiment: Benchmark No. 8 also aligning closely to a clear Pantone 152 through my eyes. (See: https://www.pantone-colours.com). Nose predominantly oak, vanilla, and corn, with a touch of caramel. Noticeable ethanol on the nose, despite the mild 80 proof. There is a subtle viscosity on the palate, with some creamed corn and some pleasant cinnamon spice. Alcohol makes an appearance again. The finish is short to medium, with vanilla and a touch of bitterness on the back end. Benchmark No. 8 is not a sipping whiskey; and it's not really a cocktail whiskey either (I prefer higher-proof bourbon for that). It typically can be found for less than $20. But for just a few dollars more, you could have Elijah Craig Small Batch, which is 14 proof higher, and a far better bourbon. Benchmark is young and unpolished. It's not offensive, and doesn't really have any sharp edges, but at only 80 proof, it's not much of a value either. I'd certainly drink it, but wouldn't keep one on hand other than to say you've had it. 2.5 stars on the Distiller scale. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. -
Larceny Small Batch Kentucky Straight Bourbon
Bourbon — Kentucky, USA
Reviewed September 12, 2023 (edited September 18, 2023)Continuing to work through the unreviewed bottles in my collection. Also continuing my Pantone color-identification test. Pantone 152 seems to be quite bourbonesque, combining aspects of what I've referred to as burnt orange and mahogany (clear, of course). The color of the Larceny is identical to the Weller Special Reserve tasted alongside it. The Larceny shows a not-insignificant dusty/musty note on the nose. Underneath that is some caramel and spice cake. The palate is an improvement, and is slightly more viscous than the WSR; the 92 proof comes off as more integrated than WSR's 90. Again like the WSR, there is a woody tannic bitterness on the finish, along with some vanilla. I love the different releases of the Larceny Barrel Proof far more than this, it's "younger brother." But it's not just the higher proof that I like: I enjoy both Elijah Craig and its Barrel-Proof version (both of which, like Larceny, are also Heaven Hill products). Like the WSR tasted with it, Larceny isn't a sipper for me, or even a daily drinker; but unlike the WSR, I do not feel compelled to keep this one on hand. 3.0 on the Distiller scale. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. -
Weller Special Reserve Bourbon
Bourbon — Kentucky, USA
Reviewed September 12, 2023 (edited December 28, 2023)Continuing to work through the unreviewed bottles in my collection. Cannot believe that this one has been skipped until now. Also continuing my Pantone color-identification test. Pantone 152 seems to be quite bourbonesque, combining aspects of what I've referred to as burnt orange and mahogany (clear, of course). The color of the Weller Special Reserve is identical to the Larceny Small Batch tasted alongside it. Sweet nose with graham cracker, cherries, apple pie, oaky vanilla, and a hint of banana on the nose. The palate is neither thin nor viscous in terms of mouthfeel, and the 90 proof is not shy. It's certainly not unpleasant, but I've had smoother bourbons with higher proofs. There are some woody bitter tannins on the finish, in addition to a lingering sweetness. WSR is a staple in any whisky collection. It's not a complicated sipper, but more of a daily drinker, and something I wouldn't mind putting an ice cube into during the summer months. Compared to the Larceny Small Batch tasted beside it, the WSR is far fruitier on the nose and palate. The mild 90 proof removes it from the cocktail lineup for me, as I prefer something stronger for a Manhattan or Old Fashioned. 3.75 on the Distiller scale. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. -
Mortlach 16 Year "Distiller's Dram"
Single Malt — Speyside, Scotland
Reviewed September 11, 2023 (edited September 14, 2023)Tasting this immediately following its little brother, the Mortlach 12. Looks a shade darker than the 12, but seems to align with the Pantone 152 in color. Clear sherry influence on the nose, but the first impression is fruit cake, with the entirety of walnuts, maraschino cherries, and baking-spice sweetness. The mouthfeel is expansive without being glycerin-like, and shows dates and prunes. Ethanol is in check (not that it's particularly high). Pleasantly long finish with raisins, and lingering vanilla. The overall impression is notably better than the 12; both sweeter and smoother, with more depth yet still a lightness of foot. The 16 is not overtly complex, and lacks some distinctive characteristics, but I'd much prefer this one over the 12 in my inventory, if I had to choose and budget were an issue. The 16 can be had for about $125, and a connoisseur would do well to keep a bottle on hand. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. 43.4% ABV. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.
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