Tastes

Clear, dark mahogany. Nose gushes fruity apple butter and strawberry jam; sweet sorghum syrup and caramelized sugar; some sherryish hazelnut; and notes of new tire rubber (complexly appealing) and saline (saline solution, not a salty seaweed Islay salinity). Lightly viscous mouthfeel on the palate with a biscuity blueberry scone element and hint of parrafin. Apple butter returns on the finish, along with gently spicy white pepper and some vanilla extract. 43% ABV. As I mentioned in my 4/21/22 note, I'm a fan of Edradour not only for its enjoyable complexity but also for its very small, artisanal production. And while the following is not always the case, I note that this is one of numerous examples where my rating differs sharply with that given by Stephanie Moreno (who rates it an 84). 4.25 on the Distiller scale. N.B. Last note 4/21/22 N.B. All spirits tasted neat from a Glencairn glass

I'm on my second Glencairn glass (neat, of course) of Wild Turkey Kentucky Spirit right now. My current thoughts are essentially the same as my note from 7/7/22; the only difference is the "dusty" element seems a little more prominent, and thus I'm knocking it down a quarter point. Because of the similarity, I'll repeat my previous note here: Wild Turkey's Kentucky Spirit is a single-barrel release, bottled at 101 proof. This one was bottled on 4/30/2020 from barrel 1448, stored in Warehouse A, on rick 37. Clear mahogany color. Vanilla, roasted marshmallow, milk chocolate, orange oil, Red Delicious apple skins, and a musty/dusty (though not unpleasant) undernote. Palate has tobacco and leather, in addition to some welcome--and expected--heat, finishing with char, oak, and vanilla. Kentucky Spirit is a model of restraint. It doesn't need to be showy. It's neither hazmat-strength nor the watery bourbon minimum of 80 proof. It isn't young and aggressive; neither is it too old and overcome with woody tannins (the #4 "alligator" char used by Wild Turkey helps). It is polished and smooth. There is no age statement on the bottle, but WT's website states that it is aged 8 years. Postscript With all due respect, I continue to find wide variance in Stephanie Moreno's Distiller reviews (see my reviews on Compass Box Hedonism and Glendronach Allardice 18 Year). Her note is worth repeating here: "The nose hits you with a big hit of oak along with sweet caramel and vanilla notes. There's also a touch of orange peel and dried herbs to be found as well. Moving on the the taste, you'll find butterscotch candies mixed with peppery oak flavors, apple skins and baking spices. The mouthfeel is on the thin side and the length of the finish is average. Could stand to be a bit more complex." Five different olfactory descriptors. Four different palate notes. And ending with "could stand to be a bit more complex"? for a score of 84? Logically inconsistent. To be fair, Kentucky Spirit is a single-barrel bourbon, which means there will be variance from barrel to barrel. That does not, however, mean that a review should be intemperate. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in separate Glencairn glasses.

As I said previously on my 5/19/22 note, this is a polarizing, love-it-or-hate-it whiskey. One of my best bourbon-drinking friends is in the latter camp, while I'm unabashedly in the former. One of the first rules of tasting, whether wine or whisk(e)y, is to ascertain typicity: something is what it is in part because of the similarities it shares with others of its clan, as well as its differences with others. Bourbon should taste like bourbon. But bourbon this ain't. This is hedonistic, ostentatious, noncomformist whiskey. On the uniqueness spectrum, this one is way out on the tails of the distribution. A lot of similarities with my previous note: its description as the love child of a frozen Mudslide cocktail and a Russian Imperial Stout is apt. But there's also a certain 70s-style ambrosia-like fruitiness, with maraschino cherry, grated coconut, a little tangerine, and canned pineapple. Espresso. And some cooling spearmint. This is a whiskey that can be discussed over an entire evening. More of the same in the mouth. A lot of lingering Swiss Miss instant cocoa on the long finish (and I mean that in the most complimentary way). I could drink this all day long. This is one of those whiskies that must be tried if you ever get the chance. Aside from the whiskey itself, you've never had, nor will you ever have, anything quite like it. A strong 4.5 on the Distiller scale. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

RYE SHOWDOWN #3 Bulleit 95 Rye Frontier Whiskey Knob Creek Small Batch Straight Rye Whiskey Continuing my recent foray back into ryes (see “High Test Rye Showdown,” 8/17/22, and “Rye Showdown #2,” 8/21/22). Bulleit 95 Rye Frontier Whiskey Surprisingly, this bottle is over half empty, and I don’t recall drinking any within the past two years, at least. Watered down orange mahogany bourbon in color. Nose shows some rye typicity, oak, cinnamon, honey, and a hint of eucalyptus. Coming back to it after the Knob Creek reveals a Granny Smith apple note. A bit thin on the palate, where some vanilla makes an appearance, along with orangey citrus and a little back-end spice. Finishes similarly. No age statement, but at least four years due to the “Straight American Rye Whiskey” designation. 95% rye; 5% malted barley. Sourced from MGP. 90 proof. No hard edges; nothing off-putting; but very middle-of-the-road. Would make a decent Manhattan or Old Fashioned (now that I think of it, I think this is how more than half of my bottle found its way out). 3.0 on the Distiller scale. Knob Creek Small Batch Straight Rye Whiskey This bottle has only a quarter of it remaining. Like the Bulleit, I believe this was the result of the same cocktails, and I haven’t consumed it on its own in at least a couple years, if at all (save an initial taste). Darker in color than the Bulleit: clear bourbon mahogany color. Rye on the nose, along with cherries, vanilla pound cake, light char, some coolness, and a noticeable dusty note. Creamy mouthfeel with some woody bitterness. This one is growing on me. Improves with air. Very gentle spice, with vanilla and lingering coolness appears again on the finish. The higher proof seems to help, although it is well integrated. No age statement. Bottled at 100 proof. Pleasant. The higher proof does make it cocktail-worthy. 3.25 on the Distiller scale. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in Glencairn glasses

RYE SHOWDOWN #3 Bulleit 95 Rye Frontier Whiskey Knob Creek Small Batch Straight Rye Whiskey Continuing my recent foray back into ryes (see “High Test Rye Showdown,” 8/17/22, and “Rye Showdown #2,” 8/21/22). Bulleit 95 Rye Frontier Whiskey Surprisingly, this bottle is over half empty, and I don’t recall drinking any within the past two years, at least. Watered down orange mahogany bourbon in color. Nose shows some rye typicity, oak, cinnamon, honey, and a hint of eucalyptus. Coming back to it after the Knob Creek reveals a Granny Smith apple note. A bit thin on the palate, where some vanilla makes an appearance, along with orangey citrus and a little back-end spice. Finishes similarly. No age statement, but at least four years due to the “Straight American Rye Whiskey” designation. 95% rye; 5% malted barley. Sourced from MGP. 90 proof. No hard edges; nothing off-putting; but very middle-of-the-road. Would make a decent Manhattan or Old Fashioned (now that I think of it, I think this is how more than half of my bottle found its way out). 3.0 on the Distiller scale. Knob Creek Small Batch Straight Rye Whiskey This bottle has only a quarter of it remaining. Like the Bulleit, I believe this was the result of the same cocktails, and I haven’t consumed it on its own in at least a couple years, if at all (save an initial taste). Darker in color than the Bulleit: clear bourbon mahogany color. Rye on the nose, along with cherries, vanilla pound cake, light char, some coolness, and a noticeable dusty note. Creamy mouthfeel with some woody bitterness. This one is growing on me. Improves with air. Very gentle spice, with vanilla and lingering coolness appears again on the finish. The higher proof seems to help, although it is well integrated. No age statement. Bottled at 100 proof. Pleasant. The higher proof does make it cocktail-worthy. 3.25 on the Distiller scale. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in Glencairn glasses

IRISH WHISKEY SHOWDOWN Redbreast Single Pot Still 12 Year Green Spot Single Pot Still My experience with Irish whiskey is quite limited. I used to travel to Dublin pre-9/11 and would bring back Redbreast for an Irish friend of mine (and myself), as apparently it wasn’t available in the US at the time. So I had a few bottles over a period of a few years way back when. Since then, I’ve been gifted Bushmills 10 Year Single Malt (tasted and reviewed 8/4/2022) and Powers Gold Label. And I’ve had the occasional Jameson in bars years ago. Irish whiskey is a hole in my whisk(e)y palate that I’m working on rectifying. Redbreast 12 Year Watery amber color. Nose of candied orange rind, apple pie, vanilla, and a bit of minty coolness. Lightly viscous mouthfeel, with gobs of vanilla on the palate—more than any whisk(e)y I’ve ever had. Finishes with a white-pepper spiciness, a (not off-putting) slight espresso bitterness, and another long pull of sweet vanilla. While I love the 12-year age statement, the 40% ABV—which is the bare minimum required by law, even if it is the most common in Ireland, as I understand it—doesn’t sit well with me. It also makes it that much more easy drinking, which also doesn’t sit well with me. Likeable; no hard edges; but lacking complexity. 3.5 on the Distiller scale. Green Spot Watery color like the Redbreast, but just a tad brighter. Nose shows spot-on yellow banana popsicle, kumquat, freshly cut hay, applesauce, and pears in syrup. Interesting nose, but less robust than the Redbreast. Light palate, with more vanilla, before finishing with a gentle, dark-roast-coffee-bean (dipped in vanilla extract) bitterness. 40% ABV, like the Redbreast; this cost-cutting economics makes it a little more difficult to take seriously. No age statement, but comprised of whiskey seven to ten years old, according to the distiller. Good, not great. 3.5 on the Distiller scale. Both of these are enjoyable, but not special in and of themselves—not that they need to be. They do open up over the course of an hour. Despite the low ABV—or maybe because of it—these are two whiskies that I wouldn’t hesitate drinking with just a little ice on a hot summer day—light, pleasant, and refreshing. Or neat, in a dark Irish pub, with a pretty woman: the low alcohol would necessitate more drinks, which would mean more conversation. Outside the bar, if consumed neat, I believe both would benefit from a higher proof. Green Spot’s older brother, Yellow Spot (which I’ll try eventually), checks that box and is bottled at 46% ABV. Redbreast 12 is available in cask strength as well.

IRISH WHISKEY SHOWDOWN Redbreast Single Pot Still 12 Year Green Spot Single Pot Still My experience with Irish whiskey is quite limited. I used to travel to Dublin pre-9/11 and would bring back Redbreast for an Irish friend of mine (and myself), as apparently it wasn’t available in the US at the time. So I had a few bottles over a period of a few years way back when. Since then, I’ve been gifted Bushmills 10 Year Single Malt (tasted and reviewed 8/4/2022) and Powers Gold Label. And I’ve had the occasional Jameson in bars years ago. Irish whiskey is a hole in my whisk(e)y palate that I’m working on rectifying. Redbreast 12 Year Watery amber color. Nose of candied orange rind, apple pie, vanilla, and a bit of minty coolness. Lightly viscous mouthfeel, with gobs of vanilla on the palate—more than any whisk(e)y I’ve ever had. Finishes with a white-pepper spiciness, a (not off-putting) slight espresso bitterness, and another long pull of sweet vanilla. While I love the 12-year age statement, the 40% ABV—which is the bare minimum required by law, even if it is the most common in Ireland, as I understand it—doesn’t sit well with me. It also makes it that much more easy drinking, which also doesn’t sit well with me. Likeable; no hard edges; but lacking complexity. 3.5 on the Distiller scale. Green Spot Watery color like the Redbreast, but just a tad brighter. Nose shows spot-on yellow banana popsicle, kumquat, freshly cut hay, applesauce, and pears in syrup. Interesting nose, but less robust than the Redbreast. Light palate, with more vanilla, before finishing with a gentle, dark-roast-coffee-bean (dipped in vanilla extract) bitterness. 40% ABV, like the Redbreast; this cost-cutting economics makes it a little more difficult to take seriously. No age statement, but comprised of whiskey seven to ten years old, according to the distiller. Good, not great. 3.5 on the Distiller scale. Both of these are enjoyable, but not special in and of themselves—not that they need to be. They do open up over the course of an hour. Despite the low ABV—or maybe because of it—these are two whiskies that I wouldn’t hesitate drinking with just a little ice on a hot summer day—light, pleasant, and refreshing. Or neat, in a dark Irish pub, with a pretty woman: the low alcohol would necessitate more drinks, which would mean more conversation. Outside the bar, if consumed neat, I believe both would benefit from a higher proof. Green Spot’s older brother, Yellow Spot (which I’ll try eventually), checks that box and is bottled at 46% ABV. Redbreast 12 is available in cask strength as well.

BUNNAHABHAIN SHOWDOWN Bunnahabhain 13 Year Marsala Finish Bunnahabhain 18 Year My experience with Bunnahabhain is limited to the 12 year and the two bottles here. I’ve not had either in some time. While I’ve always liked the 18, I recall not caring for the 13 year marsala finish. Let’s see how this goes. Bunnahabhain 13 Year Marsala Finish Clear dark orange amber color. Notes of honey, biscuity blueberry scone, pine rosin, coffee. There’s an unexpected (to me) raspberry or lingonberry note as well. There’s some dates on the palate, as well as a touch of bitterness (this is what I recall not caring for when I last tasted it two to three years ago), finishing with some spiciness that leads to brown sugar and vanilla. Limited release exclusively for the US market. Non chill filtered; no statement about coloring (though it is slightly lighter than the Bunny 18 which does not have added coloring). Aged for 10 years in ex-bourbon casks, followed by three years in marsala wine casks. 46.3% ABV. While there are different notes and flavors, it is more interesting than it is complex: there are still aspects of this whisky that I cannot quite elucidate after 30 minutes of nosing and tasting, and it comes across as a little disjointed. 3.5 on the Distiller scale. Bunnahabhain 18 Year Clear, orange mahogany color; slightly darker than the Bunny 13. There is a tangy, barbeque sauce quality on the nose (think Heinz 57), dried speck, oak, dark toffee, dates, and some sherry sweetness. More sherry on the palate, with espresso and some noticeable ethanol. The BBQ twang makes a brief cameo on the finish as well, with lingering vanilla sweetness. Non chill filtered; no added coloring. Aged in ex-sherry casks. 46.3% ABV. Very nice. 4.0 on the Distiller scale.

BUNNAHABHAIN SHOWDOWN Bunnahabhain 13 Year Marsala Finish Bunnahabhain 18 Year My experience with Bunnahabhain is limited to the 12 year and the two bottles here. I’ve not had either in some time. While I’ve always liked the 18, I recall not caring for the 13 year marsala finish. Let’s see how this goes. Bunnahabhain 13 Year Marsala Finish Clear dark orange amber color. Notes of honey, biscuity blueberry scone, pine rosin, coffee. There’s an unexpected (to me) raspberry or lingonberry note as well. There’s some dates on the palate, as well as a touch of bitterness (this is what I recall not caring for when I last tasted it two to three years ago), finishing with some spiciness that leads to brown sugar and vanilla. Limited release exclusively for the US market. Non chill filtered; no statement about coloring (though it is slightly lighter than the Bunny 18 which does not have added coloring). Aged for 10 years in ex-bourbon casks, followed by three years in marsala wine casks. 46.3% ABV. While there are different notes and flavors, it is more interesting than it is complex: there are still aspects of this whisky that I cannot quite elucidate after 30 minutes of nosing and tasting, and it comes across as a little disjointed. 3.5 on the Distiller scale. Bunnahabhain 18 Year Clear, orange mahogany color; slightly darker than the Bunny 13. There is a tangy, barbeque sauce quality on the nose (think Heinz 57), dried speck, oak, dark toffee, dates, and some sherry sweetness. More sherry on the palate, with espresso and some noticeable ethanol. The BBQ twang makes a brief cameo on the finish as well, with lingering vanilla sweetness. Non chill filtered; no added coloring. Aged in ex-sherry casks. 46.3% ABV. Very nice. 4.0 on the Distiller scale.

RYE SHOWDOWN #2 Sazerac Rye Straight Rye Whiskey Rabbit Hold Starlino Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey Finished in Vermouth Casks Continuing my recent foray back into ryes (see “High Test Rye Showdown,” 8/17/22): with four left in my collection, I decided to break them up in batches of two. These two comprise, in my estimation and memory, the better half. Sazerac Rye Sazerac Rye is a Buffalo Trace (Sazerac) product, and as such needs little introduction. Apparently it once carried a 6-year age statement, and is often referred to as “Baby Saz,” ostensibly the younger brother of the BTAC Sazerac Rye 18, and/or the BTAC Thomas H. Handy. The mashbill isn’t definitively known but is believed to be just 51% rye. I’ve had bottles on hand for years, and have regularly had it neat and in a Sazerac cocktail. Bottled at 90 proof. Deep, clear, honeyed amber color. On the nose, rye is noticeable, but is suppressed with bourbony notes due to the other 49% of the mashbill. There’s also caramel, dark chocolate, clove, anise, vanilla, and a cool lingering spearmint in the background. Fantastic sipper but lacking some rye typicity (due to its bare-minimum rye percentage). Smooth: downplayed ethanol, with subdued rye spiciness on the finish along with some vanilla. Baby Saz isn’t showy. Its biggest attributes are its lack of rye typicity, its smoothness, and its often-less-than-$30 price tag. While I at least try everything neat, with the smoothness and gentle minty coolness, I could see this over a little ice on a hot summer day, or in an interesting nontraditional Mint Julep, and certainly in a Sazerac cocktail. This is one to always have on hand. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. Rabbit Hold Starlino I received this as a gift at a Rabbit Hole tasting I attended earlier in the year with Rabbit Hole’s founder, Kaveh Zamanian. Starlino is part of RH’s cask strength distillery series, and is the first spirit distilled entirely at the RH distillery. It is finished in vermouth casks, and as such perhaps isn’t the best side-by-side pairer with the Baby Saz. Starlino was originally available only at the distillery, and does not appear on the website. Only 2112 375ml bottles were produced; mine is Batch 0352, bottle 0446. Bottled at 105.8 proof. Color is virtually identical to the Baby Saz, despite the vermouth cask finishing. Nose shows some immediate ethanol in comparison (not detrimentally so), as well as cedar, pine, brown sugar, clove, and a coolness not unlike one would imagine finely ground Life Savers wintergreen candies. There is caramel here too, and a soft roasted marshmallow. The rye aspect on the nose seems a bit subdued here as well: not by the low rye percentage, but perhaps the vermouth finishing. The palate is refreshing, almost fruity, with an apple cider element, some heat and rye spice, and a lingering vanilla finish. Very nice. Would love to have more, but it is apparently no longer available. I’m quite happy to have my single bottle. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. This rye pairing is less of a showdown than an excuse to drink two simultaneously. Both get high marks for slightly different reasons, and I would always want both in my collection. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in Glencairn glasses