Tastes

Ardbeg Ten got some serious competition when Bruichladdich released this Port Charlotte back in 2018. On the nose, a dusty cloud of vegetal peat smoke, heather and iodine is overshadowing subtle notes of sweetness, pencil shavings and crushed mint leaves. Water accentuates licorice, citrus and seaweed. Punchy, warming and peat-driven, the taste develops towards red currants, honey and a peppery touch of refill French wine casks. The aftertaste is long and intense with lemon zest, dried herbs and lingering ashy peatiness. An efficient COVID-19 drug! RATING: 4.0/5.0 stars ≙ 88 pts → FIRST-CLASS

On the banks of the River Bush, there used to be a watermill, hence the name 'Bushmills'. Licensed in 1608, it's one of the oldest distilleries in the world. Light and engaging, the nose of this triple distilled single malt combines sour peaches, orange peel and mild spices with delicate notes of chive and thyme. Remarkably solid for 40% ABV, the palate is fruity, malty sweet and well-balanced. Banana, pears and a touch of menthol are rounded off by pleasant hints of oak. Lime, fresh mint and some bitter tannins mark the short finish. The Irish Glenfiddich? RATING: 3.2/5.0 stars ≙ 81 pts → AVERAGE [+]

Who would have thought that they distill whisky on La Palma? Mostly a rum producer, Destilerías Aldea named this blend after the Canarian dragon tree. A bit peculiar and flat, the nose offers hints of sour cream, green apples and grapes. Leafy bitterness and whiffs of old engine oil emerge. The arrival is oily, fruity and quite aromatic, followed by light peat smoke, Aloe vera and strange herbal notes in the development. Lemon zest, mild sourness and a dash of oak characterize the short but flawless finish. At 22 € per bottle, Drago is certainly a bargain. RATING: 2.9/5.0 stars ≙ 78 pts → AVERAGE [-]

Bottled for the British Armed Forces in the 1970s, this old version of Chivas Regal 12 was discovered in a musty basement after four decades of storage. What secrets does it hold? A bit reluctant at first, the aroma reveals tinned pineapple, shortbread and wood spices. The taste is silky and yet robust, featuring notes of kiwi, cumin and peppery licorice. Quality casks are shining through, not the inferior refill casks they use for most blends nowadays. Creamy vanilla, roasted nuts and a dash of oak fade in semidry and lingering finish. What a blast from the past! RATING: 3.7/5.0 stars ≙ 85 pts → ABOVE AVERAGE [+]

Serge at Whiskyfun called this Tobermory 'the Freddy Krueger of sherried whiskies', so let's dream of the Isle of Mull! Distilled in 1972 and bottled in 2006, the nose of this 33-year-old serial killer unfolds with old leather, roasted coffee beans and strong notes of balsamic vinegar. It's very concentrated, vinous and heavy, almost like thick blood. On the palate, the flavor bomb explodes with intense wood spices, plums and dark chocolate, leaving behind a dry and gingery finish with bitter bay leaves and hints of espresso. A ruthless sherry monster, without a doubt. RATING: 4.5/5.0 stars ≙ 91 pts → SUPERB

Batch variation seems to be an issue in Glenfarclas 105, so let's give this 'bang for the buck malt' a proper re-review. Slightly aggressive, the nose starts off with fruity sweetness, strawberry yogurt, candy apple and alcohol. With water, the fruitiness intensifies, featuring peach, roasted nuts and hints of vinegar. After a bold and peppery arrival, this young beast becomes quite tasty. Chocolate, juicy berries and a touch of mint flow into a lingering finish, full of spices, bitter oranges and tiramisu. Calling this malt 'the poor man's A'bunadh' wouldn't do it justice! RATING: 3.5/5.0 stars ≙ 84 pts → ABOVE AVERAGE

During a recent stay at an all-inclusive hotel, I was met with a very limited choice of whisky options: the infamous Canadian Club, VAT69, and another blend I have never even heard of. Do I really want to review THIS bottle? Well, let's get on with it. On the nose… Hello? Anyone there? Indistinct corn sweetness, alcohol and some grassy notes - that's it. Maybe it's not as bad as I thought? I am proven wrong. Harsh and watery at the same time, this tastes like a sweetened, oak-flavored vodka. Thank God, the burning finish is short to nonexistent. Seriously, no. RATING: 1.0/5.0 stars ≙ 48 pts → UNDRINKABLE

Given the right cask and a few decades to mature, grain whiskies can be fabulous. Invergordons from the 1970s are among the best bottles you can find, and this 44-year-old Mancarella is no exception. Delightful, sweet and cereal-rich, the nose combines crème brûlée, exotic tea and pastries with cloves, cocoa butter and hints of acetone. After a dense, oily and almost rum-like arrival, pineapple, lemon zest and brown sugar merge with walnuts, mint and ginger. Quality oak spices, confectionery and grapefruit sparkle in the aftertaste. A top-notch grain! RATING: 4.5/5.0 stars ≙ 91 pts → SUPERB

Norway's first-ever peated whisky was matured in 40 l seasoned Oloroso casks for 3 years, bottled at 47% ABV and given a craft presentation. Not overtly young, the nose starts off with chimney soot, dried fruits and fenalår. Hints of rosemary, stockfish and sweet cherries add some complexity. Peat smoke, orange zest and loads of pepper drive the aromatic and herbal-fresh taste of this youngster. With a salty edge of licorice and fading wood smoke, the finish dissolves into raspberry sweetness. At 3 years of age, this is a remarkably solid dram from Myken. RATING: 3.5/5.0 stars ≙ 83 pts → ABOVE AVERAGE

Ever heard of Myken? Far out in the Norwegian Sea, this small island is home to 12 inhabitants - and the world's first Arctic whisky distillery! Partly matured in 50 l Hungarian oak casks, the nose of this young malt is fruity, spicy and yeasty. Gooseberries, mango and vanilla mix with juniper, cereals and hints of sawdust. On the palate, a briny punch of virgin oak dominates the vivid and youthful taste, followed by Greek yogurt, white pepper and unripe pears. Lemongrass, wood spices and espresso notes remain in the medium finish. Not bad for a 3-year-old! RATING: 3.0/5.0 stars ≙ 80 pts → AVERAGE