Tastes

33 open bottles in my collection ranked through multiple blind tastings. Counting them down! #29: Old Pulteney. Single malt Scotch. 43% ABV. 12 years. Paid $40 At $40, I am buying again. Salt is enough for character. Old Pulteney 12 proves this. This is a fairly simple bourbon matured scotch, routine in most ways, but with a heavy maritime bend. “The maritime malt” is the slogan, which is not nearly as aggressive as Talisker’s “made by the sea”, and the more passive, smoother, and calmer phrase connecting the whisky to the sea is reflected in the liquid as well. I could with a clean conscious give OP 12 to a newcomer to Scotch. I could also drink this on any occasion. It’s well priced, well balanced, and has got a little heft. MARK: 80/100 PREVIOUSLY, ON BATMAN: #30: Balvenie DoubleWood. $50. 43%. 12 years. 78/100. #31: Compass Box Oak Cross. $35. 43%. NAS. 78/100. #32: Johnnie Walker Black Lable. $36. 40%. 12 years. 71/100. #33: Larceny Kentucky Straight Bourbon. $21. 46%. NAS. 41/100.

33 open bottles in my collection ranked through multiple blind tastings. Counting them down! #30: Balvenie DoubleWood. Single malt Scotch. 43% ABV. 12 years. Paid $50 Not a good purchase. There had to be a worst single malt in the countdown, and I was surprised that it was Balvenie. It’s not offensive, but just very weak. The bourbon and sherry maturations are well integrated, and the nose is a pleasant perfume. On the palate, this was watery, like it was underproof. In one blind tasting, I thought this was Glenkinchie DE because of how weak it was, and was shocked I had reversed the two. This is a beginner single malt for sure, but there are better ones out there, even at $50 or less. MARK: 78/100 PREVIOUSLY, ON BATMAN: #31: Compass Box Oak Cross. $35. 43%. NAS. 78/100. #32: Johnnie Walker Black Lable. $36. 40%. 12 years. 71/100. #33: Larceny Kentucky Straight Bourbon. $21. 46%. NAS. 41/100.

33 open bottles in my collection ranked through multiple blind tastings. Counting them down! #31: Compass Box Oak Cross. Blended Malt. 43% ABV. NAS. Paid $35 Even though $35 was a fantastic sale price, I can’t see myself purchasing another bottle. This is a boring Compass Box. I adore Compass Box as a brand, but this particular offering was average. It’s very quaffable, just not memorable. I recommend letting this one rest for a while. Pour it, and do something else. Initially, the dram is muddled. After 20-30 minutes, the floral notes and orchard fruits take the lead. On the palate, it is light and fruity with a quick transition the spiciness provided by the French oak heads Frankenstein’d onto American oak staves (hence the name). This may impress the newcomer, but not me. The finish is medium and uninteresting. MARK: 78/100 PREVIOUSLY, ON BATMAN: #32: Johnnie Walker Black Lable. $36. 40%. 12 years. 71/100. #33: Larceny Kentucky Straight Bourbon. $21. 46%. NAS. 41/100.

33 open bottles of my whiskies ranked! All of these were matched with one another in multiple blind tastings. Just trust me when I say the methodology was bulletproof. The countdown will proceed from worst to first! #33: Larceny. Kentucky Straight Bourbon. Very Special Small Batch. 46% ABV. NAS. Paid $21 Regrettable purchase This is a far, far last place. You cannot have this in a tasting because it will actually ruin the other whiskies. This is unbalanced nuttiness. Way too much raw peanuts and stank oils. I never had these notes in any whiskey before, but now I smell it in other whiskies, and it is disgusting. I use this in cooking, and to have a sip while cooking. MARK: 41/100

PRICE: $60-80. Widely available. INFO: Single malt scotch whisky distilled by Glenmorangie from the North Coastal Highlands region. This is your basic 10 year old ex-bourbon Glenmorangie finished for 2 additional years in ex-sauternes casks. Sauternes is a sweet white wine from France. This is bottled at 46% ABV. “D’or” is pronounced “door”, except you have to make the first sound of hacking of spitwad at the end. C’est francais. NOSE: 85/100. I definitely get white wine. White grapes plays well with the fresh green fruits and florals of the Glenmorangie base. The original 10 year old already noses so pleasant; this is different, but is not necessarily better. PALATE: 86/100. This is much sweeter than the nose. Vanilla, honey, sultanas. A tiny bit of water improves this. It becomes softer, and you can find some peaches and apricots. FINISH: 84/100. The best finish out of all the core range 12 year old finished Glenmorangies. There’s a captivating transition point into a creamy citrus. There’s still that white wine, but there’s also lime sherbet, lemon rinds, and a moderate amount of pepperiness from cloves and ginger. The linger is medium. OVERALL: Solid whisky, to be sure. But I don’t agree with packaging. Why does the box have hinges and why is this $10-20 more than La Santa and Quinta Ruban? It’s not like Sauternes finishing is rare or unique. For example, Arran does it without fanfare. In the end, I like this better than La Santa, but I prefer Quinta Ruban, which is cheaper. MARK: 85/100. VALUE FOR MONEY: Unwarranted premiumization. This used to be in plain box, like the other core Glenmorangies. I think this is worth about $50; but for that money, I would rather get the port-finished Quinta Ruban.

PRICE: $50-105. This is a 1L bottle typically found only for travel retail (Duty Free). I bought my bottle for 50 USD at Piarco International in Port-of-Spain, Trinadad and Tobago. Expect some mark up in secondary markets, and fancier Duty Free shops. INFO: Single malt Scotch whisky from the North Coastal Highlands. This has no age statement. I am guessing this takes young ex-bourbon matured Glenmorangie and finishes it in Spanish Amontillado sherry casks. Don’t be fooled: this is not exclusively sherry matured. Bottled at 43% ABV. NOSE: 73/100. Sweet and rich. Gingerbread, raisins, dark chocolate. Clashes with the clean, floral, fruity characteristic of typical Glenmorangie, which is still there. Some sawdust notes that I don’t like. PALATE: 57/100. First the good: chocolate sherry arrival. Then it falls apart. Deeeeez nuts! Almonds, walnuts, and so forth, but unpleasant and raw. And then there’s all these weird flavors like burnt caramel popcorn, and free DMV coffee. I don’t get it. This can’t decide if it wants to be sweet or dry. In the end, it’s trash. FINISH: 51/100. Yuck. A cacophonous assortment of bitter apples, milk chocolate, rotten limes, rotten eggs, generic spices, and maple syrup. Thankfully it doesn’t linger and dies a quick death. OVERALL: Why do I get suckered into travel retail exclusives that I can foresee are going to be terrible? Anytime you have the trinity of trash Scotch – NAS, TRE, and low ABV (less than 46%), you should not purchase it. But, but, but – I was thinking – one liter for $50? Can’t go wrong with that? And wrong I went. This is a beginner Scotch for those who do not nitpick bad flavor combinations, or bad flavors period; maybe for those who like Scotch on ice. And I left this in Trinidad with someone who drinks Scotch with Coke and ice – nothing wrong with that, but it’s not my style. If you want to have a sherried Glenmorangie, La Santa is easier to find and much better. If you think the tropical climate of Trinidad changed my experience of this Scotch, I bought Talisker 10 at the same shop. It tasted like Talisker 10, and I loved it. MARK: 61/100. VALUE FOR MONEY: I’ll drink it over poison (or Toki). But this bottle’s appropriate value for me is $0.

PRICE: $450-550 INFO: Speyside single malt Scotch whisky from the Macallan distillery. This has been aged 21 years in 3 different casks: Spanish oak ex-sherry, American oak ex-sherry, and American oak ex-bourbon. Bottled 43% ABV. This review is for the 2004 bottling (gray display box). The latest offering is the 2011 bottling (wood display box). NOSE: 92/100. Definitely fine. Fine oak is never as powerful as the sherry oak series. Very rounded, balanced, and complex. No dominant notes. But there’s butterscotch, vanilla, apricots, passion fruit crème Brule, sultanas. On second nosing, there’s orange rinds and even a little smokiness. PALATE: 96/100. I had to say “WOW!” with this more-expensive-than-heroin liquid still in my mouth, and almost spat some out. Immediately, there’s the sherry. But it’s got so much more game than the sherry oak. A fucking dancer on the tongue. Spinning and moonwalking. Guava, papaya, just tropical and playful behind that rich sherry. Bourbon sugar and citrus elements on the back end. Thick and oily. Don’t add water. FINISH: 90/100. Yeah, just hold this shit in your mouth forever. Swallowing is going to be a bummer. It’s medium in length and old wood spices. All that delicious tropical fruitiness fades. So smooth. And you just want another sip. OVERALL: Macallan to Mercedes Benz analogy. Mercedes is obviously passionate about making great cars. You can get an awesome Mercedes for $120,000. Their passion is behind those cars. You can get an overpriced shit Mercedes for $35,000. Their need for money by appealing to the lowest common dominator is behind those cars. I understand why Macallan is so revered after trying this exquisite dram. I had this side-by-side with a Balvenie 21 port wood, and it made the Balvenie feel like a drooling infant. MARK: 93/100. VALUE FOR MONEY: The goodiness is in the box. The only question is, are those spare $ in your bank account?

PRICE: $55-75 with decent availability. INFO: Single malt scotch from Laphroaig distillery on Islay. This is a no-age statement whisky that is matured in three different casks (hence, three wood). First, ex-bourbon. Second, quarter cask (smaller barrels for quicker maturation). Third, Oloroso sherry casks. Bottled at 48% ABV. NOSE: 88/100. Captivating and complex. Clay and ash on top. Layers of red fruit beneath. Deeper in, maltiness with “seaspray”, as they say. I pick up a little bit of talc powder, which is undesirable, but otherwise, the nose is delicious. PALATE: 83/100. As with most NAS bottlings, the bottle is unstable once opened, and the flavors change even after a month. First, getting better, and then worse. Vanilla smothered by peat, cherries and raisins, clay and ashes. A bit of engineered complexity from a fresh bottle, but with time, things become more cohesive, and there is a point when it is absolutely delicious. And now, I’m pulling from the last few pours from the bottle, and it’s becoming stale and flat. Quite an arc; but, it is what it is, when whiskymaking hacks are replacing age statements. FINISH: 80/100. I never enjoyed the finish that much. It’s caramel-y and sweet, which clashes with the ashtray and medicinal peat. Some toasted nuts and mustiness adds a little complexity. OVERALL: Complete transparency: I might not know what the fuck I’m talking about. At a blind tasting, I thought this was Lagavulin 25 year old. We were sampling 10 Islay whiskies (!) from a collection of about 40-50. There was a Lagavulin 25 in that collection. We were a little inebriated and one person said of this Triple Wood, “Oh my god, what is this? This is the best shit I’ve ever had. So sweet, so smoky.” And, like monkeys, the rest of us agreed and landed on “this must be Lagavulin 25.” We did not get any Lagavulin 25 that day. I wouldn’t have wasted it on me on that day. We ended up concluding that “Slainte” is the phrase Scots use as they dip their balls into the distillate, and that’s why Islay malts are salty. Such good times. Of course, I had to get a bottle for $60 after mistaking this for a $1000 bottle. And of course, it’s not as good, on sober analysis. Or, maybe, it’s preconceived expectations coloring true appreciation when tasting non-blind? Hmm… MARK: 84/100. VALUE FOR MONEY: Par. I don’t regret buying the bottle that I have. I won’t be replacing it, however.

PRICE: Not retail available in the U.S. At online sites, $40-60, but the bottles are 500mL. Expect to pay a secondary market premium if you can even find it in the U.S. INFO: No-age statement blended Japanese whiskey, with malt from Yoichi and Miyagikyo, and grain from [?]. The blend is re-casked in bourbon barrels for additional maturation. Bottled at 51.4%. It’s “from the barrel” (as all whisk(e)y is), and it’s high proof, but this is not cask/barrel strength. NOSE: 94/100. The richest toffee, at first. Then, dark fruits with pepper. Let it sit, and it evolves into poached pears and a soft malt, but accentuated by peppery notes. Jam packed with character and dynamic complexity. I’m loving this. PALATE: 92/100. Toffee and caramel on the arrival. Spicy, rich, sweet. Curry candy? Wrong country. Quick, think of something Japanese. Pickled plum candy. There we go. This is a brilliant blend. Coconut milk and cinnamon from the grain, and a full range of dark and dried fruits from the single malt components. FINISH: 85/100. Big punchy hit of spices to finish things off. Nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, vanilla. Medium length. A wee bit hot. Suffers a bit from being generic and less refined compared to the memorable nose and palate. OVERALL: I would like a little bit more transparency, but it’s not so important when the liquid is delicious. I wish this was available in the U.S. This is so good I would try to make it myself. Alas, Yoichi is expensive here, and Miyagikyo is even more so. Nikka Coffey Grain is affordable, but this is much better. MARK: 92/100 VALUE FOR MONEY: I had this at a D.C. restaurant out of the giant 3L bottle with a 40mL pipette. They charged $30 for 40mL versus you getting a whole 500mL bottle for $50 in Europe. Still worth it, as they say.

PRICE: $30-45 INFO: Japanese no-age-statement blended whiskey. The reported components from biggest proportion to smallest proportion: 1) Hakushu (malt); 2) Chita (grain); and 3) Yamazaki (malt). Maturation is coming from both American white oak and Spanish oak. NOSE: 52/100. Atrocious right off the bat. Glue and plastic. I’m not having this neat. With a few drops of water and some time, the dram settles down. Honey, straw, and granny smith apples. You get none of the floral notes that characterize Hibiki and Yamazaki. PALATE: 44/100. Really bad grain. I find it hard to believe that Hakushu is the main component. There’s some hot, youthful barley and corn, with a harsh, nasty vanilla. There is a cologne note – like actual cologne – try spraying some cheap Calvin Klein in your mouth. I cannot believe how bad this is. FINISH: 30/100. Sorry, I could only manage two sips – about one-tenth of my 5cL sample. I dumped the rest. It’s flat, metallic, coppery. My kryptonite when it comes to whiskey is not Sulphur or bitterness; it’s the taste of blood, like you bit your tongue; I get that disgusting association when cheap grain is used. It’s what I get here. OVERALL: This is the Johnnie Walker Red of Japanese whiskey. Sorry to start the year on a low note, but this is one of the worst whiskies I’ve ever tried. Call me a single malt snob, I don’t care, but you cannot pay me to have this again. The world is so high on Suntory, I think they actively tried to see what they could get away with in terms of cheap production costs, and it amazes me some reviewers are still giving this a tentative green light. Spend a few extra bucks. Hibiki Harmony and Nikka Coffey Grain are still overpriced, but there is an actual effort at quality with them, and they are not offensive like Toki. MARK: 44/100. VALUE FOR MONEY: Fill a nicer looking bottle with rodent urine, and I’d rather spend my money there.