FOUR ROSES SHOWDOWN
Four Roses Small Batch Select
Four Roses Single Barrel (NS 52-1N)
I don’t think Four Roses gets enough credit—including from me. A few years back, a local store used to carry Four Roses Barrel Strength Single Barrel Select, and I loved those (they aren’t referenced on the Four Roses website, so I don’t know if they’re still being produced, though they can still be found online). I’m a big fan of the still-somewhat-new Small Batch Select—though I hate saying it, because I don’t want the supply to dry up. And I’ve also enjoyed the various single barrel offerings. I currently have two in inventory: the Small Batch Select (previously reviewed 5/22/22), and this Single Barrel, which I’ve not yet reviewed. Two good candidates for another Showdown.
Four Roses Small Batch Select
Clear dried orange color, between Pantone 151 and 152. Fruity nose shows dried apricot, tart apple, toffee, sweet honey, Frosted Mini Wheats (despite no wheat in the mashbill), vanilla, a touch of white pepper, and spearmint. Palate shows more sweet toffee, sidestepping the predicted alcohol and moving towards cinnamon, char, white pepper, and vanilla.
This might be the smoothest 104-proof bourbon I’ve ever had. But don’t conflate smoothness with simplicity: it’s no small feat to hide 104 proof points under a soft blanket, and there’s several descriptors vying for attention. I’d like to see this proofed up. Four Roses Small Batch Select can be found for under $60. Would I buy it again? Yes. Actually, I’d already done that the first time I tasted it. 4.0 on the Distiller scale.
104 proof. NAS (6-7 years, according to company website). Non-chill filtered. From recipes OBSV, OBSK, OBSF, OESV, OESK, OESF.
Four Roses Single Barrel (NS 52-1N)
Same clear dry orange Pantone 151/152 color. Nose shows carrot cake, dried orange, marzipan, apples, vanilla, and some spearmint. There’s a paraffin note that would be consistent with the longer wood aging. A bit of viscosity on the palate, with sweet orange and a pleasant Kentucky hug. There’s some rye spice on the finish, sweet espresso, black licorice, and a healthy dose of oaky vanilla.
This Single Barrel is outstanding. It’s got everything: complexity, well-integrated proof, and an easy (and guiltless) drinkability. The various iterations can be found for under $50, which represents high relative value. Would I buy one again? Yes. No question. 4.25 on the Distiller scale.
100 proof. NAS (7-9 years, according to company website). Warehouse NS; Barrel 52-1N.
I’ve been a big fan of the Small Batch Select as soon as it was introduced to the market. But I’m surprised that I’m rating this particular Single Barrel higher. Both of these bourbons are excellent, for different reasons. The Small Batch Select is sweet and subtly complex; it is balanced, smooth, and very enjoyable. The Single Barrel shows more differentiated complexity consistent with its longer time spent in barrel; the marginally lower proof also comes across more strongly—and this is a compliment. Both have a strong 100-104 proof, but I’d never use either of these in a cocktail. These are bourbons that are meant to be savored, slowly.
N.B.: All spirts tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.